Three Unhurried Days

Day 1 - The Old Town and the Jewish Quarter

• Morning:the Old Town walking route, starting at 7:30 while the square is empty: the astronomical clock, the tower climb, Týn church, then north into the Jewish Quarter for the synagogues and the Old Cemetery. Remember this only works Sunday to Friday - the Jewish Museum closes Saturday.
• Afternoon:the Charles Bridge, crossed before the mid-morning crowds if your legs are ahead of schedule, then lunch in a neighbourhood pub well away from the square - the denní menu, not the terrace.
• Evening:beer culture proper: tank beer at a local pub, or the five-hundred-year-old dark lager at U Fleků.

Day 2 - The castle side

• Morning:up to Prague Castle for opening - grounds free from 6:00, buildings from 9:00 - for St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace and Golden Lane, with the noon Changing of the Guard if you time it.
• Afternoon:walk down through Malá Strana: St Nicholas church, the grand Café Savoy or a garden pause, and Strahov's library if you took the hill road.
• Evening:an hour on the Vltava - the evening sightseeing cruises run from the riverside piers - or a concert in a baroque church, of which Prague has more than any city needs and all of them beautiful.

Day 3 - A day out, or a slow one

Either take the hour-long train to Kutná Hora for the ossuary and St Barbara's - book the ossuary ahead - or stay in the city: Vyšehrad's free rock-top grounds in the morning, a long pub lunch, and the Petřín funicular and lookout tower in the afternoon, riding down for a last look over the spires before dinner. Your 24- or 72-hour pass covers the funicular, but a 90-minute single does not — it's 100 CZK at the gate.