Munich, beyond the big tent

Munich has a marketing problem: most visitors only ever see it in late September, in a tent, with a liter of beer in hand. That's a fine way to see it. It is not the only way. This guide covers Oktoberfest properly — tents, prices, how to get a table without a reservation — and then covers the rest of the city, because the Residenz, the English Garden, and a day trip to a castle that looks drawn rather than built are worth the visit even in a quiet February.